The Benedictine Way

St. Francis and St. Benedict travelled through Umbria and Lazio in the course of the Middle Ages. These saints and their fellow monks also established monasteries and places of worship which have become famous over the centuries. The purpose of this tour is to enable travellers to capture the spirit and inspiration that drove St. Benedict to spread his message of faith throughout the region.
St. Benedict was born in 480 AD in the little town of Norcia located in the southern part of Umbria. At an early age he was sent to Rome to complete his studies, but soon left the city because he strongly objected to what he considered to be a sinful and corrupt lifestyle of its inhabitants. He then decided to live as a hermit and retired for a while in a cave near Subiaco, where, incidentally, he was made a monk. Later he moved to Monte Cassino where he eventually built a monastery. Besides the many miracles attributed to this holy man, St. Benedict's main contribution to Christianity was his Holy Rule, a document laying down the norms to be followed by his monks in their daily activity and above all in their religious life. Its influence was such that the Rule was at the basis of monasticism for over 500 years and is still felt nowadays. In contrast to the severe austerity typical of eastern monastic orders, it required monks to be first of all holy men, humble and obedient, while particular stress was laid on the importance of both physical and intellectual work as well as on the hierarchical structure in each monastery. This enabled Benedictine monks to become involved especially in missionary and educational activities. At a time when Europe was undergoing dramatic changes and experiencing the horrors of war and pestilence, the work of these humble, but brave and devoted monks helped the Old Continent to survive the Dark Ages, retain its Western culture and prepare the structure of modern society. For this reason St. Benedict was proclaimed Patron Saint of Europe by Pope Paul VI in 1964.
VIA BENEDICTI
While the Benedictine Way starts from the town of Norcia, your trip will actually begin from your hotel or other accommodation in Rome or in the neighbouring area where you will be picked up by an English-speaking driver-guide who will be escorting you for the whole tour. Please also bear in mind that every effort will be made to ensure that your accommodation will be of the standard required by you, as local market conditions allow.
First day - Norcia is, as mentioned, St. Benedict's birthplace, which explains why the Benedictine Way departs from here. In the very centre of the town you will see the Basilica of St. Benedict, which, as tradition has it, was built on the ruins of the house where he was born. Its 14th century Gothic-style facade is decorated with a fresco of the Madonna and Child between Angels, while the statues of St. Benedict and St. Scholastica stand on either side and an elaborate rose window is located on top. The walls of the main church are decorated with 17th century paintings and the crypt contains remains of an old Roman wall as well as fragments of 14th century frescoes. Both the Basilica and its surroundings provide an ideal environment for meditation and spiritual fulfillment, something that you will notice throughout this journey. Not far away, in the National Park of the Sybilline Mountains, you will visit the Church of St. Scholastica, which stands on the site where the Saint, who was St. Benedict's sister, founded the Second Benedictine Order. Its decorations include a lunette housing a sculpture of the Madonna and Child with two Angels and some 15th century frescoes representing significant episodes from the life of St. Benedict.
- Your lunch will be served at local restaurants and dinner, accommodation and breakfast have been arranged at nearby Spoleto.
Second day - Today you will be travelling to Farfa, where you will visit the Abbey of St. Mary. Originally built half way through the 6th century on the ruins of a Roman patrician residence, it was totally restructured in the year 680 AD and reached its maximum importance between the 8th and the 12th century. The whole complex includes a church, a courtyard and two cloisters. The church itself incorporates many elements of Carolingian architecture and is decorated with various Gothic and Renaissance-styled frescoes as well as with an oil painting of the Flemish school dated 1561 depicting the Final Judgement. As you walk down the old streets and lanes of the tiny town of Farfa, you will find it hard to imagine the enormous cultural, political and economic influence that the Abbey exercised in the Middle Ages over all of Central Italy. In actual fact, some documents which have come down to us thanks to the work carried out by monks operating in Farfa during the 11th and 12th centuries are extremely significant not only for the Benedictine Order, but also for European history. The area around Farfa, known as the Sabine Region, is famous for its culture and art, as much as for its natural environment. Olive groves are to be seen everywhere and it is perhaps no coincidence that the olive branch has been for centuries a symbol of Christianity. Beautiful forests crossed by numerous streams and totally peaceful surroundings help to create an atmosphere that is rarely to be found anywhere. In the afternoon you will be transferring to Rome to visit the Abbey of St. Paul Outside the Walls. This "Ancient and Venerable Basilica", as Pope Benedict XVI likes to call it, is located on the site where, according to tradition, St. Paul the Apostle was laid to rest after his martyrdom (the Apostle's tomb was in fact recently rediscovered under the Basilica). The Abbey comprises the Basilica, the Cemetery and the Cloister. Among the many "treasures" that you will be able to admire are the chains of St. Paul and a marble slab which protected his tomb since the time of Constantine. It is also interesting to know that, among the many precious books kept in the Abbey's Library, we can find the so-called Carolingian Bible of King Charles the Bold, a manuscript dating back to 870 AD.
- Your will be having lunch at a restaurant not far from Farfa, while your dinner, accommodation and breakfast have been arranged in Rome.
Third day - As we have already mentioned, St . Benedict left his native town of Norcia when he was still very young. After a brief time in Rome, he abandoned society to live as a hermit and later as a monk. He then founded the Order called after his name and his fame quickly spread beyond the region. However, he conducted all his activity as a preacher and spiritual guide in the Lazio area. It is not surprising, then, that there should be so many places of worship dedicated to this Saint in the vicinity of Rome. Today your first visit will be to the Convent of St. Cosimo (Cosmas), which is located at Vicovaro, in the Regional Park of the Monti Lucretili. The natural landscape is breathtakingly beautiful and the Convent itself looks down on the Valley of the River Aniene that lies far below. This is the place where in 520 AD St. Benedict was asked by some friars to become their abbot. Years later, his followers built a church and monastery dedicated to the Saints Cosmas and Damian. In addition to the church itself, which is decorated with frescoes of the Umbrian school and a 16th century wooden crucifix, the adjoining Benedictine Caves also draw visitors' attention because of their historical and religious significance.
In the afternoon you will move on to a Sanctuary that was particularly dear to Pope John Paul II. The Sanctuary of Our Lady of the Graces of Mentorella is near the town of Capranica Prenestina and may be reached from the small village of Guadagnolo through the so-called Wojtyla Path. Located on a rocky spur of the Prenestine Mountains at over 1200 metres above sea level, this holy shrine is one of the oldest in Italy and in fact in Europe: Emperor Constantine had it built in the 4th century AD on the very spot where St. Eustace, a Roman general serving under Trajan, was converted. The Sanctuary has had a chequered history of considerable importance during the Middle Ages, followed by a period of decadence and ruin and finally a restoration of its structure and spiritual significance from the 17th century onwards. Inside the Church, you will see a 13th century wooden statue of Our Lady of the Graces and Child Jesus which is considered one of the best wooden sculptures of its time in the area. A cave nearby is supposedly the place where St. Benedict spent two years of his life. Here, as in all the other sites visited in this journey, you will come face to face with the feeling of solitude and mysticism that inspired St. Benedict and his followers to carry out a mission that would have had far-reaching consequences on European history and culture.
- You will be having lunch at a restaurant in Vicovaro, while dinner and accommodation for the night have been arranged for you in the town of Fiuggi, not far from the Sanctuary at Capranica Prenestina.
Fourth day - The first part of your journey today will take you to the Monastery of St. Benedict of the Sacro Speco near Subiaco. It stands on the slopes of Mount Taleo, inside the Regional Park of the Monti Sibillini. It is interesting to note that the geological structure of the Park is such that over time it created a number of caves and grottos. Hermits, of course, were thankful that they could find shelter in these natural structures in the course of their roaming. The area is also rich in rivers and other streams that are ideal for wildlife. Thus, if you are lucky, you can catch a glimpse of a wolf, a bear or an eagle-owl, while the rivers provide a perfect habitat for several species of fish. The flora is no less striking in its quality and variety, which includes some very rare flowers. No wonder St. Benedict was fascinated by such a unique environment and decided to set up a monastic community here. The Monastery comprises two little overlapping churches, some chapels as well as several caves, in one of which the Saint lived for three years, until Easter of the year 500 AD. This marked a turning point in his life, since he abandoned his ascetic retirement to dedicate himself to preaching and education. He then founded 13 little monasteries, only one of which survives today: the Monastery of St. Scholastica, who was the Saint's sister and shared his religious fervour. The Monastery is surrounded by high walls, which enclose also a bell tower and three cloisters. Incidentally, this was the site of the first Italian printing press, established in 1464, and currently houses a very prestigious library.
As your journey moves southwards, your next stop will be in the town of Collepardo, where, at 825 m. above sea level, you will visit the Certosa di Trisulti, which dates back to the 13th century. It borders on the National Park of Abruzzo, Lazio and Molise, amid age-old oak tree forests. Though altered and renovated through the centuries, this wonderful complex, which was built over the ruins of an earlier Benedictine abbey, still retains its original Romanesque-Gothic character. The Church of St. Bartholomew houses the tombs of two crusaders and several beautiful frescoes and paintings, with the cloister and chapter house offering a glimpse of the monks' life, then as now. But undoubtedly visitors are most attracted by the old pharmacy (currently a museum) displaying bottles and containers of all kinds in which the monks would place herbs collected to extract essences used - from antiquity right up to this day - in the preparation of medicinal products, aromatic honeys and jams, strictly in accordance with traditional methods.
The Certosa is inhabited by Certusian Monks from the nearby Abbey of Casamari, which is your final stop for the day. This Abbey was founded by Benedictine monks in the 11th century over the remains of the Roman village of Cereatae Marianae, which, incidentally, was the birthplace of the famous Roman general Caius Marius. However, early in the 12th century it experienced a severe crisis and was then taken over by the Certusian monks. These were actually an offshoot of the Benedictines and their Order had been established in1098 at Citeaux, France, for the express purpose of reinstating observance of the original spirit of St. Benedict's Rule, which had become somewhat lax within the Benedictine Order. The Abbey, that was partly altered by the Certusians, is a splendid example of Gothic architecture in Italy and reflects the core of the Certusian philosophy: simplicity and austerity, which translates into an almost total lack of decorations and the absence of a bell tower. The church, the cloister , the chapter house and the refectory are so intensely pervaded by a gripping atmosphere of mysticism that it is impossible to escape from it while you are there. The library and the art gallery/museum also deserve every attention because of the many precious books and art pieces that are on show.
- Arrangements have been made for you to have lunch near Subiaco, while you will be having dinner at a restaurant in Frosinone, where your hotel is also located.
Fifth day - Your journey is now approaching its climax. As you reach the town of Cassino, the centre of Benedictine devotion, the cradle of European monasticism and a beacon of Western civilization during the Dark Ages rises on the slopes of Mount Caira, in a commanding position above the surrounding valley. The Abbey of Montecassino was originally a small oratory set up by St. Benedict when he arrived there in 529 AD. This is where he spent the rest of his life, elaborated his concept of monasticism and perfected his Rule. His followers and successors built the Abbey which by the Early Middle Ages had already become one of the most famous abbeys in Europe on account of the scholarly activity carried out by its monks. A vast number of classical works by Latin and Greek authors have come down to us thanks to the research work, translations and transcriptions made by those monks, who produced also many illuminated manuscripts now kept in the prestigious Library, together with other invaluable documents, including, for instance, the earliest legal text written in Italian (960 AD). In addition, the monks helped the local population with their knowledge of medicine, proved to be good hydraulic engineers (they reclaimed the valley ), composed sacred music and studied philosophical science. Though repeatedly destroyed over the years (during World War II it was razed to the ground by an air raid), the Abbey has always been rebuilt and can still be admired today. Apart from the impressive beauty of the Church and other structures, it is the sense of peace, tranquillity and dedication to work that strikes anyone visiting the Abbey for the first time. This helps to explain how and why the message of St. Benedict spread far and wide throughout Europe at a time when people were desperate to find comfort, encouragement and support, while wars, plagues and famine ravaged their countries.
Having now completed your Benedictine Way, on your way back to Rome you will make a short detour to visit Castel Gandolfo, where the Pope's summer residence is located. It will not be possible to enter the Pope's residence, but it will in any case be interesting to tour the town and its surroundings, including a lovely lake.
- While you will be having lunch at a restaurant near Cassino, a restaurant has been selected for your dinner in Castel Gandolfo, where your hotel accommodation has also been arranged for the night.
The tour will end with your return to Rome next morning.
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