Itinera Romana (Along Roman Roads)
Did you know that tourism as such was an invention of the ancient Romans? It was a natural consequence of the expansion of the city and the gradual transformation of the areas coming under its control into an empire. Previously roads had been built mainly as a result of military and commercial requirements. Romans too had used them for these purposes, but the wealth and sophistication of Roman society drove especially the upper classes to visit the various parts of what is now known as Italy. One should realise that, apart from the variety of its beautiful landscapes, Italy at the time was in fact inhabited by various populations of very different physical appearance, speaking different languages and having different customs. Travelling here would have been a very similar experience to what is now travelling widely around Europe. Thus the Romans became the greatest road builders of antiquity, as is witnessed by those roads which are currently named consular roads. These were in fact comparable to modern highways in more ways than you may imagine. They were not just feats of engineering, linking Rome with towns and areas hundreds of miles away. They featured actual service stations which were equipped to handle all possible requirements of passing travellers: from horse changes to horse fodder, from blacksmiths to wheelwrights and cartwrights, from resting areas to restaurants serving warm, hearty meals. They even packed warm food for hasty travellers to take away with them without wasting time: probably the first instance of take-away dishes in history! The whole system was so well set up that travellers could take away the food in hot pots that they would simply leave at the next service station for someone else to take back, thus enabling the food chain to go on indefinitely. Consular roads were also provided with signposts showing the name of the nearest town and the distance from it, as well as the distance from Rome and from the closest service station. The main consular roads were: Via Aurelia, linking Rome to Genua (modern Genova) and eventually with Gaul (modern France); Via Cassia, leading from Rome to Tuscany and specifically Florentia (Florence); Via Flaminia, originally connecting Rome with Fanum Fortunae (Fano) on the Adriatic Sea and later extended to Ariminum (Rimini), where the Via Aemilia led through the Po Valley to Placentia (Piacenza) and subsequently to Mediolanum (Milan); Via Salaria, joining Rome with the Adriatic Sea at San Benedetto del Tronto; Via Tiburtina Valeria running between Rome and Pescara again on the Adriatic Sea; Via Appia linking Rome to Capua (near Naples) where the Via Popilia went on to Brundisium (Brindisi) at the heel of the boot. A trip along any of these roads has a twofold value: it unveils splendid panoramas and unforgettable landscapes, while it brings to life traces of a distant past which is nevertheless the true background of Italian history and of Western civilization. We feel, however, that the tour, no matter how interesting, would be missing an important component if it did not include some exposure to Roman cuisine in the days of Julius Caesar or Augustus. So, we have made arrangements for a number of restaurants located along the consular roads to welcome our guests at lunches or dinners with meals featuring either dishes prepared according to ancient Roman recipes or, for the less adventurous, typical local cuisine.
All roads lead to Rome. This is probably one of the most quoted sayings regarding the city of Rome and, in antiquity, it was absolutely true. The major roads departing from Rome were built over 2,000 years ago by Roman engineers as the City expanded and its need to have better communications with outlying areas grew accordingly. Unfortunately, during the Middle Ages a large portion of the network of Roman roads suffered severe damage from the barbarian invasions. Yet, the main roads managed to survive and in fact are still in use today. Our purpose in arranging Itinera Romana was to give you an opportunity to view, and often travel over, some of those roads, admire the ever-changing panoramas appearing before your eyes, visit some of the most famous and other less known, but equally charming, cities that have sprung up over the centuries along the way and savour local delicacies from the various areas.
Please note that each tour under the heading Itinera Romana has been called Iter, a Latin word meaning Journey, Way. Also kindly note that the tours we are proposing have been specially designed to include areas of particular historical, cultural or panoramic interest. However, upon your specific request, they may be changed to meet your requirements. An English-speaking driver-guide will accompany you for the whole tour to provide information on the places you are going to visit as well as to answer any questions you may wish to ask.
Iter Primum (First Tour)
A tour, with an English-speaking driver-guide, along Via Cassia, leading from Rome to Florence through Latium, Umbria and Tuscany.
FIRST DAY - As you leave Rome, you arrive almost immediately at the ruins of Veii, an Etruscan town that reached its maximum splendour in the 7th century B.C. and was defeated by Rome in the 4th century B.C. Little can one imagine from what is left now (mainly tombs and excavations in a rural context) how important this city was when it vied with Rome for supremacy in the area: it was the wealthiest Etruscan city in the southern part of Etruria and its population reached 100,000 people. After a brief stop at Veii, you will resume your tour and shortly reach Sutri, another Etruscan city, that, once conquered, became a key outpost for the Roman advance into Etruria. In time the town grew in size and importance, partly because in the late years of the Republic and early years of the Empire a number of wealthy Romans built their summer residences here and often owned large properties in the surrounding countryside. During this period the Via Cassia played a decisive role in the development of the town and the neighbouring area, a role that it retained throughout the Middle Ages owing to a fortunate coincidence. In the late 10th century, Archbishop Sigeric travelled from Canterbury to Rome, passing through modern-day France, Switzerland and Italy. Since he duly noted the route taken and the stops made along the way, it became customary for north-European pilgrims bound for Rome to take that Route, called Via Francigena. The Route was not actually a road in the true sense of the word, but rather an itinerary to be followed by using existing alternative roads (in the Middle Ages, at times it was necessary to move away from your ordinary road because of weather or road conditions, the presence of bandits, wars, enemy raids or similar reasons). Via Cassia happened to be part of the Via Francigena, which ensured Cassias survival to this day. In the immediate vicinity of Sutri you can still see ancient Etruscan tombs, which nowadays have become simple caves that are used as cellars or for other similar purposes by the local farmers. You will have lunch at a typical local restaurant.
After lunch you will continue your trip along the Via Cassia that skirts the Cimini Hills and Lake Vico. The natural environment is uncontaminated because the area is a Natural Reserve that is home to a variety of birds, fish and wildlife generally. Your driver-guide will then make a small detour to take you to the town of Caprarola, where you will find the splendid Palazzo Farnese, or Farnese Palace, built between the 16th and the 17th century. As you move on, you will notice that there are, here and there, small villages set on the Cimini Hills. Sometimes they sprang up close to where affluent Roman families used to spend their summer holidays, other times they grew around early Christian monasteries, as is the case with Soriano nel Cimino, a town that developed after the construction of the Orsini Castle in the 13th century. This structure was for centuries at the heart of struggles between powerful Roman families, often related to Popes and cardinals, until, in the 20th century, it became a maximum security prison, which was closed in the 1990s. It is definitely worth walking up to the top of one of its keeps to enjoy a lovely view of the town and its outlying areas. Only a few kilometres away lies Viterbo, known as the city of the Popes because for part of the 13th century they moved there, having left Rome owing to internal strife and political unrest. Actually a funny anecdote refers to this period in the history of Viterbo. The cardinals had been meeting for three years to elect the new Pope, but had been unable to agree on anyone. Angered at the long-drawn-out process, the local population decided to lock the cardinals in the election room (clausi cum clave, meaning closed with a key), supply them with only bread and water and uncover the roof to expose them to the weather. The Pope was then elected without further delay and the new Pope, Gregory X, found the method of election so efficient that he decreed that from then on it should be adopted to select new Popes. That is the origin of the term conclave (a corruption of the Latin words cum clave). The citys historic centre was built during the Middle Ages and it is so well preserved that, as you walk through it, you almost feel as if you are stepping back in time. The most famous buildings are of course the Papal Palace, the nearby Cathedral of St. Lawrence, other churches and the city walls. You will have dinner at a restaurant in Viterbo, specialized in local delicacies. You will also spend the night at a hotel in Viterbo. 
SECOND DAY - Your tour this morning will take you first of all to a fairly unusual, but undoubtedly interesting, place: the so-called Holy Wood, better known as The Park of Monsters, located at Bomarzo. The Park, which was originally called the Park of Marvels, essentially consists of a series of marble statues and sculptures representing characters from mythology. A lovely wood decorated with tree-lined paths and beautiful green lawns provides a perfect setting for the Park, which is truly unique in its kind at world level. Your tour will then go on to Montefiascone, where you will visit the 11th century Church of San Flaviano. Inside it you will see the tomb of a German bishop who died in this town. According to tradition, in the year 1111 this clergyman, who was travelling to Rome, had sent ahead of his party a trusted servant with instructions to write the word EST (Latin for there is) when he found an inn selling good wine. On his arrival at Montefiascone, the servant was so enthusiastic about the local wine that he wrote EST ! EST!! EST!!!. The bishop shared his enthusiasm to such an extent that he returned there on his way back from Rome and stayed on until his death a year later. He left all his properties to the town that had made him so happy, on condition that they should pour a whole barrel of wine on his tomb every year. As you resume your trip, you will make a short detour into Umbria, to reach Orvieto, a city perched up on top of a rocky butte, with a commanding position over the surrounding plain. This city, that was probably founded by the Etruscans, in its heyday (13th and 14th century) controlled a vast area in Central Italy. There are some magnificent buildings that testify to the period of power and splendour experienced by Orvieto during the Middle Ages. The Duomo is undoubtedly the most spectacular building in the city. Its construction began in 1290 and took over a century. The Duomo is in Gothic style and both its external appearance and its interior are considered architectural and artistic masterpieces. Since you will have lunch at Orvieto, you will be able to enjoy a taste of delicious Umbrian cuisine. In the afternoon you will be entering Tuscany, a region that needs no introduction for the magic spell of its panoramas, the exquisite dishes of its cuisine and the fundamental contribution of its civilization to the political, economic and cultural bases of the Western world. You will have your first direct contact with this area at Bagno Vignoni, a charming little village made up of houses dating from the Middle Ages, built around a pool of hot springs. Time here seems to have stopped centuries ago and the place is so fascinating that in antiquity visitors (Saint Catherine from Siena, for instance) were bewitched by its unique atmosphere as much as they are now (even movie scenes have been shot here). Nearby is another enchanting town, Pienza. Though of very ancient origins, this town owes its sudden development in the 15th century to the fact that Pope Pius II was born here and attempted to turn the town into what he thought an ideal city should be like. The Cathedral and some beautiful palaces bear witness to his fine artistic taste. After his death the town did not change any further; in fact it still looks today very much as it was centuries ago. It is such a lovely town that UNESCO declared it a World Heritage Site. Your final stop for the day will be at Siena, the city where the famous Palio, or horse race, takes place twice a year. Like most other cities in Tuscany, Siena is essentially a medieval city. Piazza del Campo (where the race is held), the Palazzo Comunale with the adjoining Torre del Mangia and the Duomo are perfect examples of the many city buildings typical of Italian architecture during the Middle Ages. Tuscan cuisine is reputed among the best in Italy: you will have an opportunity to try it at dinner here in Siena, where you will also spend the night.
THIRD DAY - Your first destination today will be San Gimignano. This absolutely delightful little town only a short distance away from the Via Cassia is renowned the world over for its Medieval towers (14 have survived to date from the original 72), which have earned it the nickname of Medieval Manhattan. The people of San Gimignano have been very successful in their efforts to preserve the spirit and appearance of the Middle Ages, the time of its maximum splendour. The town's historic centre has been declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. After a tour of its quaint little streets and lovely squares with their ancient palaces and churches, you will no doubt enjoy a lunch prepared for you at a local restaurant that is renowned for its typically Tuscan cuisine and excellent choice of wines (Vernaccia is San Gimignano's famous local wine, but Chianti wine is also at home in all this area). Back on the Via Cassia, you will reach Florence. The very name of this magnificent city is a byword for art, beauty, elegance and tradition. You are sure to enjoy a guided tour of the City's historic centre, including the Uffizi, the Academy Gallery, Piazza della Signoria and a host of other unique sights. The tour of the city is going to end at the Ponte Vecchio, the best known bridge in Florence, where the Via Cassia used to end in Roman times. You are then having dinner at a select restaurant in Florence, where you are also going to spend the night. This will complete your Iter Primum.
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